Mourvèdre has been a favorite of mine for a long time, probably due to my early attachment to Cline Cellars (see previous posts), one of the few California wineries to focus on the varietal. I liked (and still like) its ability to produce dark, brooding fruit flavors with an Old World earthiness. Nice write-up on the grape here.
Bonny Doon Vineyards is a wine geek’s dream. Not only do they champion “ugly duckling” varietals and innovative techniques (biodynamics, screwcaps, putting grapes in a freezer to make ice-wine), but “president-for-life”/winemaker Randall Grahm is as interesting as they come. Cleverness coats everything they do, from the wine labels to the names of the wines to the winemaker’s notes (which will send you to Google to try to understand all the literary/philosophical/scientific references). I used to belong to their DEWN (Distinct Esoteric Wine Network) wine club, which they use for their most experimental efforts. In the 2 years or so that I was a member, I received a grenache blanc, a grignolino d’Asti, a spumante of erbaluce, a barbera/arneis, dolcetto, cinsault, chenin blanc, cab franc, barbera, an angelica and more. Good geeky fun and some very tasty wine.
Producer: Bonny Doon Vineyards (for its DEWN wine club)
Grapes: 100% Mourvèdre
Appellation: Contra Costa County (AVA, California)
Vineyards: old vines in the Sacramento River Delta region
Aging: unknown
Alcohol: 14.2%
Price: Not sure. Part of my DEWN club shipment in Feb. 2005 … probably $20-25
My tasting notes: Dark purple color, but not opaque. Roasted fruit and meaty/animal aromas on the nose. In the mouth, it is medium-bodied with red and black fruit flavors framed with earth and mineral characteristics. Good acidity and a lengthy finish. This wine rewards contemplation, and I’m enjoying it more and more with each taste.
Assessment/grade: This wine has lots of interesting earthy/mineral/meaty notes while retaining an appealing fruit character. That makes it a winner for me. B+/A-
Free association:
Hey Jim- I was excited to see this Bonny Doon review to the left of your Los Carneros review (which I can’t wait to try)—I have been meaning to join the Cline club for a long time. I joined the DEWN club a couple months ago, but have not received the Mourvedre yet, I can’t wait though, its one of my favorite grapes. I can’t believe that list of varietals you’ve received from Doon—I’ve got some fun times ahead!
Love the blog!
Here is my Bonny Doon Super Tuscan Challenge blog if you are interested!
http://corksandcaftans.wordpress.com/2009/08/21/super-tuscan-challenge-bonny-doon-v-piaggia/
Thanks for the comments.
The Cline Los Carneros rocks. Definitely check it out. I have lots of Cline wines in the cellar so check back for other reviews.
You will definitely enjoy DEWN. Cline’s club is good too, but you can get the majority of their wines in stores (at least here in Austin). The DEWN stuff is unavailable anywhere else (except maybe in the tasting room) and will definitely expose you to all sorts of new stuff (the Barbera/Arneis blend was an eye-opener for me). Hmm, I think I’ve talked myself into rejoining DEWN!
Those 2 Super-Tuscans in your post sound terrific. I’ll be on the lookout (at least for the Piaggia since I can’t get the DEWN version). Glad I’ve discovered your blog.
I also just opened my DEWN Contra Costa Mouvedre 2003 and loved it. As always, too bad, I only have the one bottle to enjoy, but many other DEWN selections waiting to be tried, from many years of membership. Thanks for posting your review. For those who are still sitting on their bottles, I think the wine has a couple moremore years before hitting its peak. But quite drinkable now!!!
Thanks for the comments, Curt. I’m surprised I waited as long as I did to open the mourvedre … it called my name every time I scanned the cellar for a bottle. I let my membership lapse a while back and I think I only have 1 DEWN bottle left – the riesling vin de glacier 2004. Must renew.